Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week: spring/summer 2014

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Cara Delevingne as the Chanel bride with Hudson Kroenig, Karl Lagerfed’s godson Photo: ISIDORE MONTAG

TUESDAY, JANUARY 2

COMING TO A RED CARPET NEAR YOU….
Stéphane Rolland’s show-stopping caught the attention of Ms. Kardashian (below), and in dramatic shapes and bold hues, it’s not hard to see why.
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KIM’S IN THE HOUSE
She’s rumoured to be marrying Kanye West at Versailles, so it’s only natural that Kim Kardashian should look up some Haute Couture frocks for her big day. Her first stop? Stéphane Rolland, a favourite of Cheryl Cole. Photo: Getty
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CARA’S MESSAGE
It really is ‘Cara Delevingne Tuesday’. As the 21-year-old was snapped leaving the Chanel show (with model Charlotte Free on one side, and actress Michelle Rodriguez on the other), Miss D sported the following T-shirt:
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Photo: Rex

CHANEL DISCO EYES
The French fashion house this season set their obsession with statement eyes in coloured sequin stones. It’s a double disco liner if you will – black winged liner across the top, with moonstone studs below the lash line to catch the light and our attention in all the right places.
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Photo: Getty

GIORGIO’S ONE NIGHT IN PARIS
Tonight is Mr Armani’s night. The 79-year-old designer is not just presenting his Prive show to the Paris capital, he’s also inaugurating his ‘Armani Eccentrico’ exhibition, which has travelled to Milan, Tokyo, Hong Kong, Rome and New York. Open from tomorrow to Jan 26 to the public, the exhibit features over 80 Giorgio Armani and Giorgio Armani Privé creations. Guests will then be treated to a dinner prepared by Davide Oldani.
“Paris is the undisputed capital of couture – fashion in its highest and most distinctive expression. I have always presented Armani Privé here. With its understated elegance, the city never ceases to inspire me,” commented Armani.
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BRIDAL WATCH #3
Brit model Cara Delevingne isn’t in a relationship as far as we know, but that didn’t stop Karl Lagerfeld from casting her as the bride in a beautiful, sheer gown in the Chanel show. Her trail was dutifully carried by little Hudson Kroenig, Karl’s godson.
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TRAINING DAY WITH CHANEL
Karl Lagerfeld ushers in a sportier, less contrived approach to couture dressing with trainers ousting skyscraper heels on the Chanel catwalk. Read Lisa Armstrong’s full show report here
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HAIR-RAISING STYLE AT CHARLIE LE MINDU
Forget haute couture, it’s all about ‘haute coiffure’ for Frenchman Charlie le Mindu, who is on Lady Gaga’s speed dial.
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Photos: EPA

What’s on the menu today?
Chanel kicks the day off at 10am, followed by Ulyana Sergeenko (1.30pm) and Bouchra Jarrar (3.30pm). The evening is taken up by big guns Vionnet (at 6.30pm and conceived by Hussein Chalayan) and Cate Blanchett’s favourite, Armani Privé (9.15pm).
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THE RUSSIANS ARE HERE
Primrose-haired Elena Perminova, was at her friend Giambattista Valli’s show on Monday evening. She brought along her consort of Alexander Lebedev, owner of The Evening Standard.
Smart move. Valli specializes in those kind of clothes – the kind husbands like; the kind one might want a husband to pay for. Lisa Armstrong
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MONDAY, JANUARY 20

GRACIOUSLY GIAMBATTISTA
Giambattista Valli’s ready to wear is heart stoppingly expensive. His demi-couture collection, with its lustrous sequined and embroidered flowers and glossy duchess satins will cost a fortune.
There’s no mistaking where the money goes – even a floral mini dress from this label is generously smothered with jewels or sculpted with flounces, pumped-up peplums, theatrically huge, crystal-iced satin bows and other architectural flourishes. Somehow, Valli keeps all his balls gracefully in the air – and lobs in a few colour slams as well. Try a fuchsia silk fish tail skirt with a white peplum and pale pink sheath top for a sorbet hit, or a similar silhouetted in daffodil, nude and black. And then there were all those Tory-blue, satin swooshy gowns. Read Lisa Armstrong’s full show report here
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ALEXIS MABILLE
Paper butterflies filled the room at Alexis Mabille’s show, where would-be brides would have had a field day.
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COOL GIRS AT DIOR
Dior regular Leelee Sobieski looked as elegant yet undone as ever at Dior, while the polished star of Girls, Allison Williams, for into the couture groove at the same show.
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THE LOVE-STRUCK COUPLE ARE IN TOWN…
AKA kate Bosworth and new husband Michael Polish. With their eternally-sleek hair, the inseparable teens husband and wife rocked up the Dior show, putting on a display of affection for the French photographers. See which other stars have been at the shows
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Photo: AP

DELIGHTFULLY DIOR
Having toyed with Dior’s famous full-skirted, wasp-waisted New Look, creative director Raf Simons turned his attention in this spring/summer 2014 collection to the sack dress, the loose, chemise-style sheath with a gathered cape back that Dior launched in the 1950s. In fact, Balenciaga acolytes claim Dior “borrowed” the innovation from their man, but the truth is, it originated in the 18 century. Read fashion editor Lisa Armstrong’s full show report here
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ON AURA TOUT VU
We’re not sure what’s going on with this moody couple, but we like that when it comes to his’n’hers style, all that differentiates one from the other is a voluminous tutu.
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Ravissante: ruffled mint skirt at Schiaparelli. Apologies for the pretentious lapse into French. But it’s Paris. Couture. Cold. Prefect storm in other words . And see what I mean about preponderance of green? There will be more. Lisa Armstrong
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STARRY STYLE
Carla Bruni-Sarkozy (left) and supermodel Elle Macpherson turned out to support Marco Zanini’s first Schiaparelli show.
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BRIDAL WATCH #2
How to be a heavily embellished bride, by Georges Hobeika
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FROM THE FRONT ROW
Lisa Armstrong reports: “Nearly got trammelled in the paparazzi stampede – don’t let anyone ever kid you this is a dignified business – but it was almost worth it to get Carla Bruni’s pout. It’s quite something. She looked molto contento throughout the Schiaparelli show. Maybe it was the clothes – they were very pretty – or just maybe it was thinking about the plight of poor, darling Valerie Trierweiler…”
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Lisa Armstrong continues: “LOVED this fresh apple green bag at Roger Vivier. Weirdly, there’s a lot of this colour about for spring summer 2014. Have all the designers been juicing?”
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PASTEL PERFECT AT GEORGES HOBEIKA
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BRIDAL WATCH #1
First out of the wedding dress blocks in Marco Zanini’s erm, trouser suit, seen at Schiaparelli. We love the ombré veil. It all feels very Bianca Jagger version 2.0. View the full Schiaparelli collection here
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AN ODE TO GRACE?
Should one assume that this model in Marco Zanini’s debut Schiaparelli show was a brazen nod to US Vogue’s creative director Grace Coddington? We like to think so…
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THE RETURN OF SCHIAPARELLI
Despite the presence of Carla Bruni and some spectacular blossom boughs that transformed the entrance to the building where “Schiap” lived into a springtime glade, this was a relatively low-key affair. Perhaps it was because the build-up to this relaunch has been so long – 60 years – but the febrile anticipation that greets every arrival and departure at labels such as Jil Sander, Dior and Saint Laurent to name but three, was discernibly lacking. Read Lisa Armstrong’s full show report here
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View the full Schiaparelli collection here

EDITOR FROCK-WATCH
The eternally chic Carine Roitfeld pulled off an elegant, bow-tie cape without looking anything like Little Red Riding Hood’s elder sister, while Anna Dellor Russo, the editor-at-large of Vogue Nippon, brightened up the streets of Paris a Prada coat.
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Photos: Getty

ON THE LIST
What’s on the schedule today? Well, the Telegraph Fashion team have been invited to Marco Zanini’s forst collection for Schiaparelli at 9am; the Dior show kicks off at 2.30pm and then dreamy Italian dress designer Giambattista Valli takes the baton at 7.30pm.
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SUNDAY, JANUARY 19

SHE’S HER OWN STAR
Donatella Versace gets well and truly papped outside her Atelier Versace show
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Photo: Getty

Paris Couture Week opened with Donatella Versace’s regular tribute to The Goddess. Inspired at various points, you couldn’t help but notice, by Lady Gaga, although Grace jones was the official muse, Donatalle Versace unleashed a procession of red carpet scene stealers in her Atelier Versace spring/summer 2014 Show. Read Lisa Armstrong’s full show report here
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Photos: AFP/ AP

HOLDING COURT
Lady Gaga, the face of Versace’s current ad campaign, made a grand entrance at the Atelier Versace show.
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Photo: Getty

BACKSTAGE BEAUTY
Getty Images captured these atmospheric images of the models getting prepped backstage at Versace, which took place in the French capital’s Camber of Commerce.
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Photos: Getty

All photos by Isidore Montag unless otherwise stated