24 Russian fashion designers you need to know

Russia’s fashion scene is little more than 20 years old, yet it’s already flourishing. The Calvert Journal picks 24 young Russian designers who have taken leave of the former Soviet styles, and are offering a new take on how to dress well
Lesia Paramonova starts each collection for her label LES with sketches of flora and fauna, which are transformed into prints for her dresses, skirts and shirts. Despite being a newcomer, her use of prints, colour and narrative has won her some dedicated fans, including fashion blogger Susie Bubble. Photograph: Lesia Paramonova lesiales.tumblr.com
Alexander Terekhov
Thanks to Alexander Terekhov, who trained at Yves Saint Laurent, there were a few Muscovites walking around in tasteful attire in the Noughties. Since then, Terekhov has been designing red carpet dresses for Russian celebrities with his signature blend of city chic with classic glamour. Photograph: Alexander Terekhov alexanderterekhov.com
Asya Malbershtein
Asya Malbershtein started out making leather bags, backpacks and clutches before embracing bondage-inspired leather accessories, designed to be paired with everyday attire. More recently the St Petersburg-based designer has ventured into tailoring with minimalist dresses, skirts and coats. Photograph: Asya Malbershtein asyamalbershtein.com
Asiya Bareeva
In contrast to Moscow’s new wave of fashion minimalists, Asiya Bareeva has a fondness for layers of different prints and fabrics. Her floral headbands, handmade from Japanese clay, are one of her most popular items. Photograph: Asiya Bareeva asiyabareeva.tumblr.com
David Koma
Newly-appointed director of Mugler, David Koma was born in Georgia, but grew up in St Petersburg before moving to London to study fashion design at Central Saint Martins. Before joining the French label, Koma’s work focused on feminine statement dresses for celebrities including Beyoncé, Lady Gaga and Rihanna. Photograph: David Koma davidkoma.com
Gosha Rubchinskiy
Gosha Rubchinskiy is credited with being the first Russian designer to introduce post-Soviet skater fashion outside of Russia. Rubchinskiy’s streetwear-inspired clothing is now produced with the help of London’s Dover Street Market team. Photograph: Gosha Rubchinskiy gosharubchinskiy.com
Forget Me Not
Forget Me Not founder Artur Lomakin’s floor-length coats, heavy-knit sweaters and lambskin collars have become part of his signature style, which takes inspiration from both the harsh landscapes of Northern Russia and the Moscow suburbs. Photograph: Forget Me Not forgetmenotblog.tumblr.co
Cap America
Olia Shurigina set up her brand Cap America shortly after graduating from the Industrial Art Institute in Moscow. So far the brand has just produced two collections which showcase Shurigina’s extensive abilities to work with digital prints and rich textures to create graphic sculptured silhouettes. Photograph: Cap America capamericastudio.com
Cyrille Gassiline
Raised in a family of craftspeople (his great-grandfather was a cabinet-maker and his grandmother was a silversmith), Cyrille Gassiline brings artistry to each of his designs. Unlike most labels, Gassiline’s clothing goes up to a European size 54 (UK 26, US 22), still a rarity in the fashion world. Photograph: Cyrille Gassiline cyrillegassiline.com
Nina Donis
Fashion duo Nina Neretina and Donis Pupis make up Nina Donis, avoiding convention to create collections that embrace a fusion of styles, from Scandinavian knitwear to uniforms. They launched their label 14 years ago and are considered to be two of the country’s most influential designers. Photograph: Nina Donis ninadonis.com
Fleet Ilya
The husband and wife duo Ilya Fleet and Resha Sharma create Fleet Ilya’s bondage-inspired, hand-crafted leather accessories; their harnesses, cinch belts and leather visors are not for the faint-hearted. Fleet trained as a saddle-maker in Russia while Resha Sharma studied at London’s Central Saint Martins. Photograph: Fleet Ilya fleetilya.com
ZDDZ
Despite being London-based, the label ZDDZ has its Russian connection stamped all over it. From the use of loud colours to a fondness for collage prints and typography appropriated from posters, adverts and billboards, founder Dasha Selyanova’s irreverent collections appeal to those looking to make a bold statement. Photograph: ZDDZ zddz.co.uk
Osemo2some
Osemo2some is one of the first in a wave of small independent brands producing quality, original yet affordable pieces. The duo behind the label, Anna Andrienko and Natalia Buzakova, emphasise expert tailoring and fine fabrics in their reinvention of contemporary, feminine fashion. Photograph: Osemo2some osome2some.com
Turbo Yulia
Yulia Vorobieva‘s playful designs for Turbo Yulia draw on a variety of sources of inspiration from digital reality to futurism. Using latex, vinyl and other such shiny materials, Vorobieva creates pieces suitable for an interplanetary disco party and is a favourite among Moscow’s performance artists. Photograph: Turbo Yulia facebook.com/turbo.yulia
Serguei Teplov
Serguei Teplov launched his eponymous brand in 2005, when the seeds of Russia’s contemporary fashion industry were being sown — and he is one of the few still in the game. His loose tailoring, use of classic avant-garde shapes and pin-stripes have ensured his continued success. Photograph: Serguei Teplov sergueiteplov.com
Tigran Avetisyan
Tigran Avetisyan graduated from London’s Central Saint Martins in 2012 with his final collection attracting the attention of international press and buyers. He lives in Moscow, where he has launched his own eponymous label, which is reinventing contemporary menswear. Photograph: Tigran Avetisyan www.tigran.co.uk
Ulyana Sergeenko
Ulyana Sergeenko is the best known Russian designer today, counting Lady Gaga and Dita Von Teese among her fans. Sergeenko’s collections comes with a story — train travel, fairy tales, literature. Her eponymous label employs hundreds of Russian artisans who hand-stitch the tiniest of details. Photograph: Ulyana Sergeenko ulyanasergeenko.com
Vika Gazinskaya
Vika Gazinskaya was first spotted at Paris Fashion Week three years ago when she wowed bloggers. Now her playful designs can be found on Net-A-Porter and Browns. Gazinskaya’s recent collaboration with the H&M-owned label & Other Stories has brought her designs to the masses. Photograph: Vika Gazinskaya
vikagazinskaya.com
Yulia Kondrarina
Despite offers from Yves Saint Laurent and Givenchy, Moscow-born Yulia Kondranina decided to set up her own label after graduating from Central Saint Martins. The young designer has a penchant for textures (think fringes, knits and netting) which she uses to create elegant yet irregular silhouettes. Photograph: Yulia Kondranina yuliakondranina.com
Sasha Wider
Since launching her label last year, Sasha Wider has impressed Moscow fashion editors with her intelligent design. Her two collections to date — the first whimsical and feminine, the second bold and brooding — stand in contrast to each other, revealing the breadth of the recent graduate’s skills. Photograph: Sasha Wider sashawider.tumblr.com
Walk of Shame
Andrey Artymov’s Walk of Shame is the perfect embodiment of contemporary Moscow glamour. The label’s silk bomber jackets, floating dresses, fur coats and velvet slippers can be found in stores across Russia as well as in US multi-brand boutique Opening Ceremony. Photograph: Walk of Shame w-o-s.tumblr.com
Arsenicum
Three years after launching Arsenicum in 2004, Dmitry Loginov was named GQ designer of the year. His use of bold prints, in particular for his highly sought-after silk scarves, and sexy yet minimal designs for both men and women are a favourite among Moscow’s fashion mavens. Photograph: Arsenicum arsenicum.co.uk
Standard Deviation
A collaborative project between Artur Lomakin and Chaos Reigns, Standard Deviation is a leap into fashion avant-garde. The brand combines minimal design, sportswear influences and innovative textiles to captivating effect. Photograph: Standard Deviation facebook.com/s.deviation

Panika Derevya Panika Derevya’s eponymous label is a one-woman show: she designs and produces her limited edition pieces alone. Derevya is best described as a contemporary minimalist with a love for natural textures such as silk and wool. Photograph: Panika Derevya facebook.com/panikaderevya

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